Saint Martin

Jo-Jo under sail
Ten days to Christmas and the winter trades are here! We looked at the forecast, and we have one day to get to St Martin from Guadeloupe before the 20-30 kt winds and 10-12 foot seas kick in and are forecasted to last through at least Christmas. We were debating going to Antigua and then over to St Martin, but we thought we would get weathered in in Antigua, so everyone decided to make the 125 mile over night trek to St Martin to make sure we are there for Christmas. Leaving Guadeloupe, we had decent swells – 6 to 8 footers, but they were of the slow roller variety so actually relaxing! The winds were fairly light but forecasted to pick up early in the morning, so we motor-sailed for the majority of the night. It was a pretty easy night sail and right about 5 am the winds picked up to about 20 kts and the seas heaped and instead of the long 9 second interval, we were pounding in to 6 - 8foot seas about 4 seconds apart. Luckily we had less than 20 miles to go so only had to beat into it for about 4-5 hours. As always, Jo-Jo performed like a champ! Our downhaul on the flying jib did unravel and was trailing in the water so I had to go forward to retrieve it. Josh was at the helm and I swear he steered into the biggest wave he could find and I went airborne and then got smacked in the face with a wall of water! What a rush!!




Everyone made it to St Martin with no problems and we anchored in the bay before coming into the lagoon the following morning. What a nightmare that is going through the bridge! It is only about 50 feet wide and there are only a few bridge opening times. The bridge operator is very impatient and wants all the sailboats in the front of the line, right up close to the bridge before it opens and then all the mega yachts (and I do mean mega, mega yachts) behind. The channel to the bridge is lined with rocks and on the morning we went through, the winds were a healthy 15-20 kts. We were in line fairly close to the front, about 5 feet behind Sol mate, so we had to be careful not to ram him, and we had a 250 foot mega yacht right behind us – maybe 10 feet away, trying to nudge us up. There was a very handsome deckhand on the bow, about 50 feet above us, peering down trying to tell Maria to go forward, and she glared, communicated through certain hand signals, and held our ground! We made it through the bridge with no problems, but lots of stress, and found our anchoring spot on the French side, where we will be through Christmas.









Guadeloupe

As we continued our journey north, we stopped at Pigeon Island in Guadeloupe. The main attraction is the Cousteau Underwater Park. We did three dives here over the course of two days and all of them were fantastic. Rocks, cliffs, great coral and lots of fish made for beautiful dives!

From Pigeon Island we traveled up the coast to Deshaies. The following day, we gathered everyone together, including four friends from s/v Song and s/v Blue Moment and decided to do a hike up a river bed to a waterfall. It wasn’t really a hike – it was really river rock hoping! It was so much fun! We even brought Niko and Sol mate brought their dog, Bella. Niko thought she was a mountain goat as she bounded from rock to rock! We hiked for about an hour and a half and then stopped for lunch and a swim. A little further up was a road that you could walk back to town on, and about half the group opted to do that while the rest continued on to the waterfall. Another half hour of rock hoping, a few Spiderman moves over some rocks and we were standing in a semi-cave with thousands of gallons of water pouring down from above. Another great day in paradise!









Josh bosun chair swinging








Wild women



Rock hopping


Monkey see Monkey do

Baguette anyone?
Making our way over the rocks




Entrance to the falls









The falls 

Les Saintes

We weren’t quite tired of the French islands, so our next stop was Les Saintes. On the way down, we were able to get a mooring ball for free, but they have started charging for them, and charging a lot! It would have been about 15 Euros a night for a boat our size, so we decided to anchor around the corner from the main town. Our friends followed suit, so we had the “cool kids corner” in Petite Anse. It was a beautiful spot, in front of a little resort with a mini piton just abeam of us. The water was crystal clear and a nice turquoise blue. We spent the next few days walking around the picturesque town, relaxing in the great water and even got another dive in. The nights were spent frequenting the local watering holes. Our favorite was a place called Coconuts which played great music and we danced well into the morning there. Two of our friends who shall remain nameless tried to re-enact a Dancing with the Stars move – the one where one person is swung under the legs of the other and then back again…well, they did it great once – I mean toes pointed perfectly and everything…but then they got greedy and tried it again and all I will say is one ended up with a big bump on the head and the other with a black eye! I didn’t know dancing was a contact sport!

Josh and Connor before they jumped from the top of the crow's nest!

The three pretty ladies

Girls' day in the water

After the dive



Martinique

The next stop on party caravan north was Martinique. Our first port was Marin, which we had not been to on the way south early this year. The anchorage was a little tight and the water unswimable, but the town was cute and is a big yacht center so it has all the supplies one could want. From Marin we sailed about 15 miles to Grande Anse d’Arlet. We had stopped here on the way down and fell in love with it. It is like a little Riviera with bars and restaurants lining the beach flying their colorful umbrellas. Unlike last time, we did a ton of diving…got to love it when the only cost to doing an unbelievable dive is an air refill ($7 Euros) since we have our own equipment. Brandon from Sol mate even talked us into doing a night dive. It was awesome! The visibility on all the dives was 80-100 feet and the reefs were beautiful with bright, neon colored coral and tons of fish. We must have seen 30 eels, a few octopus, brain coral with all of its feelers out and luckily no sharks!


We next hit the big city Fort de France and stayed there for two nights before continuing up to St. Pierre. We explored St. Pierre for a day and then decided to boogie as we had been there before and wanted to keep moving. But of course, we didn’t leave before buying two cases of 3 Euro wine, brie and baguettes!





                                     
 Found the road after some bush-walking
                                         




Yet another view

     
Waiting for the no-show bus
                                     
Watching the day go by...

                                                                                                       





 An old prison in Martinique

Chilling by the sea
Harbour view





                                       
Oh so much cheese


                                      




Joana from afar




Ruin riding 



                                         

                                       
Group shot




Another group shot


Thanksgiving in St Lucia

What a whirl wind holiday season we have had! It all started back in Rodney Bay in St Lucia. We decided to meet up with our friends on s/v Solmate, s/v Sabaticus, s/v Ultra and s/v Zero to Cruising for Thanksgiving. All of these guys are about our age and tons of fun, so we knew we were in for a good time! We had a swanky Thanksgiving meal out, then ended up going to a casino and then back to Joana for a late night dance party on board, complete with marlin spike costumes! Mike and Rebecca from Zero to Cruising decided to go home early, which around here is a no-no and so of course we had to prank them – similar to when you were 13 at a slumber party and the first one asleep got magic marker all over their face – but boat style! So, we all got in our dignies, dressed up in crazy outfits, planning in loud, wine induced whispers, giggling like little kids, and banged on Zero-to-Cruising’s hull at 4am and yelled “You’re dragging!” Well, Mike was up in about 1.1 seconds, totally confused, then saw it was us and in no time we had buckets of water being hurled at us! Ahh, to be 13 again!
The Childish Pranksters!




We tore up Rodney Bay with our friends, going to street parties, back to the casino and just having a great time hanging out with everyone. It was then that we decided to bag our plan of Christmas in Bequia and instead joined the party caravan North for Christmas in Saint Martin. Of course there are a few islands in the way that need to be pirated!

Finally caught the one that got away



Ready to leave Grenada





Our departure from Granada went great. 



I set my internal alarm clock for 6 am and woke to a beautiful day with winds around 15 knots.  I gave Josh a nudge to get ready for getting underway - not the normal hours for a 19 year old, but he took it well.



We prepped the salt water wash down hose for the anchor.  The day before we had raised the chain about 30 feet to clean off what growth there was from a 3 month stay.



Leaving Mount Hartman
sv Joana
“Anchor’s off the bottom” Cath yelled “along with about 60 pounds of Grenadian mud!” Once the anchor was stowed and the main sail was set, we were off to Carriacou, about 40 miles away.  Once again it looked like a motor sail kind of day.  Our friends Wade and Diane on s/v Joana took the lead and covering the rear was Mike and Rebecca on s/v Zero to Cruising.  As we got clear of the Grenada coast, the wind became much cleaner and a few knots higher. Boy did it feel great to be back underway!  Josh was doing well until we started plowing into the five foot seas and then the green gills started to form.  Cath thoughtfully reminded him always get sick over the leeward side “for your sake and others!”


Near Kick' Em Jenny

At this point we were clicking at around 5.5 knots and another 5 minutes to Kick’ Em Jenny, which is an underwater volcano just off of Diamond Rock.  I was determined to catch the Mahi Mahi that  had gotten away 3 months before as we were sailing over this same spot. I gave Cath the wheel, jumped over the sick Pollywog hunched on the step, and made it to the bumpkin to do some fine tuning on the fishing reels.  Cath informed me that we were right over Kick’ Em Jenny and there were lots of flying fish around -jumping not away from us but toward us, always a good sign.



What a bute
“ZZZZZZZZZ” the rod sounds - there she goes!  I slipped into the belt as Cath throttled back.  Of course, just at that moment, the wind picked up and the seas started to look confused.  Always when we hook a fish it gets this way -  Neptune makes sure you earn his gift!  I looked down and saw a brilliant flash of blue and green.   Below me was a good sized bull Dorado, better known as a Mahi Mahi.  We estimated he was about 35 pounds and definitely mad.  We had quite the show as he flew out of the water, trying for the life of him to toss the hook.  Cath was doing her best to keep the ship stable.  I yelled to Josh to grab the gaff.  He had never seen a Dorado before outside a book or TV – at least it kept his mind off his seasickness for about a minute!



Cover their eyes - no flopping
I fought the fish for about 15 minutes and had him up to the boat a few times just to have him see the ship and take off again. After two tries with the gaff from Josh, I yelled to Cath to come and gaff it.  At this point I was starting to breathe a little harder as all that fighting for my foothold while reeling in was getting to me.  “Now or never!” I yelled to Cath.  Up along side he came and Cath swiped at him and BLAM up on the deck he went.  Her first ever gaffing job - not to shabby, even if it was through the tail!


Carraicaou in the morning 

Back underway again, I realized it was easier trying to catch the fish then filet it, especially with the confused seas and dull knife.
We pulled into Carricaou with the winds clocking around 30 knots from a nearby squall and a fridge full of fish, ready to enjoy a good dinner and big fish tales with friends.

Oh, did I mention how great it feels to be under way again?

Leap of Faith

The Muddy Trail

The Big One in the background

Maria’s 19 year old nephew, Josh has joined the good ship Jo-Jo for awhile to travel and experience life on the water before heading off to college. His flight landed at 9pm on Wednesday night, and little did he know that about 12 hours later, he would be jumping from a 35 foot high waterfall…welcome to Grenada!




A bunch of our friends (15 including ourselves from 5 other boats) and 3 dogs, Niko included, hopped in a van at 0’dark thirty (okay, it was only 7:30am, but for Josh, that was early!) and drove the 45 minutes through a national forest to the Seven Sisters Waterfalls.




The Adventurers
The hike to the falls started out easy enough as we walked along a paved road, but it was only there to lull us into a sense of complacency. Suddenly, the paved road stopped, and in its place was mud, lots and lots of mud. We hiked for about 30 minutes down sudo stairs, covered in mud and over tree roots covered in mud. Luckily, we had been given walking sticks which, when planted firmly in front of you, stopped you from sliding down the muck. Finally, we got to a little stream that we had to cross which let us wash off our shoes, and then in front of us, in all its beauty, lay the waterfall.




Super Butterfly
Our guide, dressed in Grenada’s colors of red, green and yellow (including red, green and yellow jellies – you know, the footwear from the 80’s that is still popular in the islands) goes by the name Super Butterfly. He has taken hundreds of cruisers down the Seven Sisters safely, so we all listened intently to his briefing, especially the part when he said if you decide to do the hike to the top, you can’t change your mind about jumping from the waterfalls because there is no other way down. At that point, I looked back at the 35 foot waterfall in front of me and it was looking rather tall. I don’t like heights anyway, and was seriously contemplating not doing the jumps. I made the mistake of voicing my concerns out loud, the rest of the group said, “come on Cath, you have to do it” and I succumbed to peer pressure.




Before the Jump
We took of our shoes and started the near vertical climb up the muddy slope, basically pulling ourselves up by tree roots, vines and rocks. The mud squished through our bare toes and one of the woman on the trek said “ I signed up for a hike, not a mud bath!” We had to climb for about 20-30 minutes before we finally made it to the first fall we were going to jump from. Super Butterfly brought us into a circle and shouted his instructions over the roar of the waterfall. “Come up to the rock, plant your feet as close to the edge as you can and push off hard with one foot” he said. Sounded easy enough. That is, until I stepped up to the edge and looked down 15 feet and saw the gurgling pool I was to jump into. Now, 15 feet doesn’t sound that high, until you are up there and have to jump. I just kept thinking, How am I going to do the 35 foot one? I took a deep breath and jumped. No problemo – first one down.

Shimming Across the Rocks


 




After everyone conquered their fear of the first jump, we continued hiking / rock climbing for about 3 minutes until Super Butterfly brought us to a circle again. This time, he had to explain how to get around a rock / cliff edge. “Just put your one foot here” as he points to a tiny indent in a rock, “put your back to the face of this rock and shimmy across” as he demonstrates going by a rock that has nothing but water in front of it” and then hold on here” he says as he points to a tiny finger hold jutting out of the rock.




“What have I gotten myself into” I keep thinking as I’m shimming across a rock face, adrenaline pumping.





Pretending to be Spiderman
We all make it to the next fall – this one relatively easy as it is only about an 8 foot jump, but the pool to jump into is only about 3 feet deep, so again, Super Butterfly gets us into a circle and tells us we basically have to jump into a sitting position with our legs straight out in front of us so we don’t break our legs. Fantastic. Well, we all do as he says and make it through in one piece.







Me Too

We climb down some more rocks and come to an area that looks like it is the world’s best water ride. White water is rushing down a gulley that has been carved out the rock and is about 3 feet across. Unfortunately, it had been raining quite a bit in the days before our adventure, and the water was rushing a little bit more than usual and was too fast for us to simply ride down. Oh no, that would be way too easy. Instead, Super Butterfly again gets us into a circle and shouts out instructions. “Pretend like you are Spiderman. Straddle the water, putting your legs on the faces of the rocks, like wise with your arms and work your way over the water.” He helped each person, one by one through this part. At one point, he told me to plant my foot hard on a rock so I could take the final step. I tried, and the rushing water almost took my leg out from under me. “Plant harder” he said, and I tried again, and again the water almost took me. “One more time, HARD” he said, I did, and my foot stuck for a moment, I took a big step and made it through yet another part of this crazy adventure.
Josh Jumping





We got to the third waterfall, which I think was the easiest, as it was only about 6 feet high and the pool deep enough that you could dive into it. It was, as they say, the calm before the storm. Not 5 feet from that nice deep pool, you could see what was ahead…the BIG ONE.






Super Butterfly called us to a circle for the final time. “Okay, the big one. On this one, the pool is 18 foot deep without rock around, so no problem. You must plant your foot, take a big leap, hold your arms out from your side to keep your balance, and bring your arms in right before you hit the water.” He made it sound so easy.






I watched everyone else’s face as they looked over the ledge, and saw, for the first time, really how high it was. Everyone’s face showed some degree of fear! Rebecca from the catamaran Zero to Cruising went first. No scream, perfect form, no problem. A few more people went – no problem. Cheryl from Happy Times got up there and made the mistake of looking down for awhile. After about 3 minutes, she decided to let someone else go and then she would go. So, Josh, Maria’s nephew stepped up, looked around, and jumped. After he went, Cheryl got back up like a trooper, looked straight out and jumped.





My Giant Leap
After watching her go, I decided I better go before I lost my nerve. I told Maria and Brandon that I had learned from watching Cheryl that you just have to go up and jump and not look down or think about it. So, I told them to say “1,2,3 Go” and I would go. Legs shaking, I walked over to the edge, grabbed Super Butterfly’s hand for dear life and told him “I’m really scared, so I’m just going to do this quick”




“No problem mon, Just make sure you have a good foot hold.




Time stood a little still. I looked down and man oh man, was it a long way down. I could see everyone who jumped before looking up. I heard Niko barking. Then I looked straight ahead at the tree line ahead of me. I heard the count down and when I heard “Go”, I took a huge leap. My arms were straight out from my side. My mouth was wide open and I was screaming. “This is a long way down” was the thought that came through my mind as I was falling. Then SPLASH I hit the water. My mouth must have still been open because it jammed shut upon impact. I surfaced, and threw my arm in the air in celebration. I had done it – I had conquered my fear and jumped!!!




After the Jump
Mike from Happy Times went next and upon impact, split is bathing suit right up the backside! Maria was laughing so hard, she nearly fell off the edge. She jumped next and her scream started out macho, and ended like a little girl’s at the end!




Super Butterfly was the last to jump, and don’t you know, he did a back flip off the fall.



What a rush.















Adult Day Care


Volleyball
Okay, I’m going to be honest, before coming to Grenada, the thought of sitting in one place for three months with about 100 other boats at anchor in a crowded anchorage was not my idea of a good time.  I was actually dreading it.  However, after being here for over two months now, I’m having a great time.  

Happy Hour After Volleyball
Most of that has to do with what I call Adult Day Care.  Now, before going on this adventure, I had worked in investment banking and we specialized in assisted living facilities (“ALFs”) and long-term care facilities for the elderly.   One of the great aspects of ALFs is that they have organized activities at the facilities and scheduled transportation (to doctors’ appts, shopping centers, etc), so the residents remain active, engaged with other people, and somewhat independent.  I have found that life here in Grenada during hurricane season is not much different. 

Bocce Ball
Like ALFs, the Grenada cruisers have a weekly calendar of events.  It can be accessed via a dedicated Facebook page, and there are also announcements everyday except Sunday over the scheduled Cruisers Net on VHF channel 68 at 7:30am.  There is a special segment of the Net called “Social Announcements”.  The activities range from cooking classes to sporting events to Spanish classes to games to bar-b-ques. 

Cricket
In addition to activities, just like at ALFs, there are scheduled bus trips into town on certain days.  However, instead of doctor’s offices and pharmacies, we go to ship chandleries, hardware stores, grocery stores and the local brewery!  The bus makes basically the same stops every trip and shadows the cruisers, so that they can leave their goods on the bus and not have to drag everything around.  I must say, for the equivalent of ($3.75 US round trip), it is a great deal.









Maria at bat during Cricket game
So, I am sure you are curious just what activities we participate in.  Well, a typical week looks something like this:

Mon – NOTHING



Tues – Volleyball followed by happy hour (3 beers for $10EC or about $3.75 US)



Wed – Burger Night and happy hour




Thurs – Volleyball followed by happy hour followed by a bar-b-que at Island View Restaurant where you get a piece of chicken and 3-4 sides for $15EC ( $5.55 US) and 3 beers for $10EC



Friday – Shopping Bus to hardware stores, ship chandlery and grocery stores



Sat – Bocce Ball tournament or Cricket game (they are on alternating Saturdays).  Both Maria and I have won the Bocce Ball tournament and the prize is a bottle of rum!  It gets serious!!



Cricket (notice beer in foreground!)
Sun – Either bar-b-que at Roger’s beach bar (think ramshackle bar on deserted island serving cold beers)  or Mexican train dominoes


 
Cricket Spectators



So that, in a nutshell, is Grenada Adult Day Care.  As one of my friends said, “it sounds magical”!